Acmella oleracea — widely known as paracress, Spilanthes, or the “toothache plant” — is one of the more unusual botanicals to cross from traditional practice into modern cosmetic science. Its bright golden flower buds contain spilanthol, the compound behind both its famous tingling sensation and its growing reputation in botanical skincare.
Here is a grounded look at this distinctive plant, its traditional uses, and why formulators have taken a fresh interest in it as a natural anti-ageing ingredient.
Important positioning: Acmella oleracea is discussed here as a botanical and cosmetic extract ingredient. The notes below cover traditional context and the plant’s compound profile, not medical treatment claims.
The plant behind the tingle
Acmella oleracea is a fast-growing herb recognised across Asia and South America by its distinctive yellow-and-red “buzz button” flower heads. Chewing the flowers produces a numbing, tingling sensation — the trait that earned the plant its common name, the toothache plant.
The leaves have long been eaten as a regional vegetable, lending a bold, slightly bitter flavour to dishes, while the flowers were the part traditionally turned to for their numbing quality.
A heritage of traditional use
Across its native range, Acmella oleracea features in traditional practice for a range of properties — most famously its numbing effect, but also as a botanical traditionally associated with soothing, calming uses. The leaves and flowers carry a long folk history in both food and traditional preparations.
Why cosmetic formulators took notice
The modern interest in Acmella oleracea centres on spilanthol, an alkylamide concentrated in the flowers. In cosmetic formulation, paracress extract is studied for its potential to support a smoother, more relaxed look in areas prone to expression lines — sometimes described as a gentle, plant-based approach to the appearance of fine lines.
An anti-ageing botanical angle
This has positioned paracress as a botanical of interest in the “natural alternative” corner of anti-ageing skincare, where brands look for plant-derived ingredients to support a fresher, smoother-looking complexion over time.
Antioxidant and soothing support
Alongside spilanthol, the extract carries antioxidant compounds, fitting the wider pattern of botanicals used to support skin exposed to daily environmental stress.
Paracress in modern formulation
Emperor Herbs offers Acmella oleracea as a high-concentration liquid extract, supplied as a cosmetic-grade raw material at a typical formulation inclusion rate. Its liquid form makes it convenient to incorporate into serums, creams, and targeted facial formulations.
A complementary skincare botanical
Paracress pairs naturally with other antioxidant-focused Thai botanicals in skincare formulation, such as Enkleia thorelii, which is explored for overnight recovery and barrier support.
The takeaway
Acmella oleracea is a rare example of a traditional botanical with a genuinely modern cosmetic story — its spilanthol content bridging folk heritage and contemporary anti-ageing formulation. Framed as a botanical extract ingredient, it is one of the most distinctive plants in the Thai catalogue.
Disclaimer: This article is for general educational and marketing purposes only. It is not medical advice and does not claim to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Emperor Herbs botanical extracts are supplied as ingredients; suitability depends on formulation, concentration, and intended use.